Monday 25 June 2012

Sünner Loving?

Being a fan of ale over lager, I thought a bottle of Kölsch might be a treat for me. Unlike the majority of its German bretheren, Kölsch is fermented with a 'top fermenting' yeast like bitter, stout and pale ale is. This is a completely different strain of brewing yeast and behaves, and of course, tastes different.  The German standard 'Lager' yeast, or Saccharomyces Carlsbergensis, is as clean as a whistle and lets the malt and hops provide flavour. I personally like some flavour contribution from the yeast so thought that Kölsch might just be the German beer for me. 

There wasn't a choice of Kölsch in the Real Ale Shop in Richmond where I bought this round of beer from but that's not too much of an issue; the fact that they've got one was fine by me. Plus, they're jolly nice in there. Sünner  Kölsch, it was then.

Standing in a typical 500ml German-style bottle with a green label, it looks as uninspiring as they get. However, I've come accustomed to Germany's perfunctory presentation and shall try and move on. What I didn't have was a special Kölsch glass: thin, straight and fairly short (200ml).  My aunt is married to a chap from Köln and at barbecues will sometimes bring mini kegs of Kölsch, which he insists is drunk in the correct glass. I found the thinnest glass I could.

Poured, the beer is as pale, sparkling and bright as they come and is typical of the style. Aromatically, there are elements of honey but surprisingly no hop aromas to speak of. It wasn't giving a lot away.

The flavour is what I'd call flat, but probably should be described as 'crisp' or 'clean'. Nothing comes forward and announces itself, apart from Plisner malt, which is fairly bland in flavour. The Kölsch yeast has no fruit flavours or spiciness; I'm sure they're very different but on first critical sampling I can't see much differing from lager yeast.

After swallowing, there is an interesting tang, opposed to the usual slow introduction of bitterness. Whilst not being sour, it's got an element of that about it. There is enough sweetness to make it pleasant to drink and it's very nicely carbonated. Other than that, there's very little else to say about it.

There are those who enjoy a clean, crisp and refreshing beer and there's nothing wrong with that. They'll probably shudder at the thought of yeast dominating a beer's flavour. For those, this beer will be perfect. In my personal opinion, I find this beer erring on the insipid side. I hope to find joy in my next Kölsch glass. At least I know someone to ask...

Sünner Kölsch - 5

http://www.suenner-brauerei.de/koelsch.html

Saturday 16 June 2012

Continued adventures in Germany...

I was feeling a little but apprehensive after my first beer in my bunch; was it going to be too much to follow? The following two beers, Ayinger's Jahrehundert Helles and Tucher's Christmas beer (yeah, odd timing but hey) both were pleasingly sweet with a sophisticated hop profile and confirmed that my new drinking adventures were going to be enjoyable.  My focus, however, now turns to the dopplebock in the fridge.

Kloster Andech's Dopplebock was looking like my sort of beer: dark and coming in at 7.1% with promise of a big malt character. Not to mention the strong ties it has with a monastery. Those dudes know how to brew.

Once poured, I could see that it was indeed dark with a rich, ruby tint. There wasn't much of a head to speak of, but with force carbonated beers it less of an issue; the fizz is there.

Aromatically speaking, this is a beer that keeps on giving. With burnt elements that reminded me of treacle and maltiness bursting through, it was a treat for my nose. What I enjoyed was the fact that it differed so much in character to a Belgian Dubbel yet had all the same aspects involved. It just goes to show how much the yeast gives a beer; the German lager yeasts are as clean as a whistle staying well out of the way, whilst their Belgian cousins work their merry way throughout a beer's flavour and scent.

Once in the mouth there begins to be a few deficiencies. It's quite lacking in body and I feel that the fizz doesn't help. As I said, it's clearly fizzy but there's something about the character of the bubbles that doesn't help with the texture.  I might be romanticising the natural qualities of bottle conditioning but in my experience (and I hate to say it, but particularly with Belgian beer) there can often be a much richer, smooth distribution of bubbles with natural carbonation. In turn, this of course assists the texture.

Usually, I wouldn't be so critical but the aroma gave such promise of what was to come and I feel it slightly let itself down. The shortcomings don't end there; the finish is a little disappointing too. It's a rather disparate affair with bitterness and sweetness both in play, which is good, but they're not really 'as one'. The bitterness is very sharp and the sweetness very mellow but the lack of cohesion between the two leaves a funny sensation.

It's a little bit of a shame as I was really excited about this beer, particularly so once I'd had a whiff of its prodigal scent but it fell short. Not drastically short, mind you - I would happily have it again - but it could have been better.

Kloster Andechs Dopplebock - 7.5

http://www.andechs.de/kloster-andechs/die-klosterbrauerei/genuss-fuer-leib-seele-andechser-bierspezialitaeten/andechser-doppelbock-dunkel.html (German only).

Wednesday 30 May 2012

New Horizons

It's pretty clear to see that when it comes to beer-producing countries I'm pretty biased towards Belgium. It's what I've mainly drunk for the last 10 years and it continues to delight me with its beer, but the time's come to branch out. If there's one country that I've scandalously ignored, it's Germany, which leaves me a rather large task. I've never drank an Altbier and the only Bock I've had is from Schlenkerla (which for those who don't know is completely drowned in beech smoke flavour). 

So a trip to a decent local offy has furnished me with a few new things to try. He apologised that he was currently under stocked but there was still a fair bit on offer. The first thing that struck me was that pretty much every brewery in Germany has exactly the same idea of what a bottle of beer should look like. So, a lot of close inspection was needed to find the styles.

I started with a Helles from Allgäuer, called 'Original'. It was brewed to celebrate their 100th anniversary and came in a swing top bottle (great to reuse when homebrewing). I actually opened this one first because it looked like the bottle had been reused one too many times and there was a bit of leakage due to a duff lid. So much for reusing on the homebrew! 

For a lager-sceptic like me, starting off on a flat beer was asking for trouble, but I did my best. I can't obviously comment on the head but the colour was interesting: darker than your usual pale-straw (dehydrated pee, anyone?) but as clear as Mother Theresa's conscience. It'd certainly been through the filter once or twice.

I was really hoping I'd love this beer, but at the same time had a horrible feeling that lager might not be my thing. As soon as I took a sniff I was happy I'd taken a chance. It was full of sweet maltiness (very mild, mind) and lots of noble hops. Hops are clearly fashionable at the moment, but not your old fashioned German ones, which are very special. The outstanding character of this beer, however, was sweetness: I was at home!

Even though it was completely flat it was very palatable. All the fruity honey flavours and sweetness made me reach for more. Thankfully it wasn't too much. It wasn't necessarily balanced by bitterness, it was just a steady amount that didn't ever become thick in the mouth. 

Aftertaste-wise it was a similar story. There was a consistently sweet, honey flavour complemented by fruity and mildly herbal hops. Whilst there wasn't any real bitterness as such, there must be some there to keep the sweetness in check, otherwise it'd be pretty heavy going.

It shows that with 100 years' experience Allgäuer has learnt that you only need  to do one or two things really well in order to have a great product. I'm sure that down the line there'll be other German beers that do a couple of simple things well that I may not find so tasty but this one has made me very excited about finding out.

Allgäuer Original "100 Jahre" 4.9% - 9

http://www.allgaeuer-brauhaus.de/100jahre/index.html

Sunday 20 May 2012

Petrus: A Love Affair

This post comes under the unofficial 'Personal Faves' series that will pop up from time to time. Who knows when the next will appear? Who knows how many personal favourites I have? I'll check next time I speak to myself.

I should be more specific: whilst my wife and I know exactly what we mean by 'Petrus', it's actually Petrus Dubbel Bruin. Bavik brewery produce 6 in the Petrus range, including Oud Bruin (a curious, sour, oak-aged number), but this is a stand-out bottle we buy again and again.

Uncommonly, I must point out initially how cheap this beer is; at £2 a bottle online this is a factor that becomes impossible to ignore as some of the beers that I'm drinking exceed £4 per bottle. When you're getting a case of 24 it matters! Whilst this inevitably means that Bavik are churning swimming pools of the stuff, it's no bad thing if it all tastes great. One of its strong points is how consistent it is.

I surprise myself again as I tell you this is no complex beer; it's fairly straightforward in fact. It's one of the palest Dubbels you'll find, just about knocking on amber's door. Scent-wise, there's a strong caramel aroma with some gentle hops peeping out from behind. It's not particularly malty which is surprising; it's just got a charming sweetness about it.

The taste is a similar story, dominated by the caramel flavour. The aftertaste is inevitably sweet, with those hops just returning to provide a bitter balance. Some, I'm sure, would find it a little sweet but I return to it again and again, enjoying it every time.

If I had to have a criticism (which I suppose I should) is that the flavour is slightly too reliant on candi sugar (an invert sugar often used in Belgium). However, saying that, if you're a fan of Belgian Dubbels and haven't tried this classic then it's time to find your nearest stockist or get online. Sip, say yum, thank me.

Petrus Dubbel Bruin 8.5

http://bavik.be/producten/index.asp?ITEM_ID=7&PRODUCT_ID=26&PRODUCT_TYPE_ID=11

Thursday 3 May 2012

Do The Wolf Hop

Lupulus: while this may sound like the name of a professor at Hogwarts it's actually a beer. The Latin name for the hop plant is Humulus Lupulus which translates as 'small humble wolf'. The region of the Ardennes where the brewery is based used to be home to wolf packs (so they say). Just in case you didn't get it, they've got a huge picture of a wolf on the front surrounded by hop flowers. So, for cleverclogs only.

It comes in a 750ml bottle and for some reason that gets me excited. If a brewer is confident enough to think that people will buy their beer in large quantities then I'm on board. However, it's in  a controversial green bottle; apparently this leaves it susceptible to be 'light struck', i.e. stinky. The jury's out as to whether it's both green and brown which are ok, or just brown. I've heard both, but never experienced skunky, light-struck beer myself, so we'll have to trust the experts, who disagree...

Enough rambling, the beer has now entered the glass. It's an alluring number, ghostly pale with a frothy head that fades fairly quickly but leaves adequate 'lacing' down the glass (I don't know why we dont just call it 'foamy scum'. What's not appealing about that?). The aroma is fairly gentle; I was expecting a little more. It's slightly herbaceous in its hop element and there's a light grain scent. In fairness, for a such a pale beer it has plenty on offer.

Taste-wise, there's a lovely honey flavour in the initial sip and the after-taste is very clean. The 8.5% alcohol comes through in a rich wave, but isn't overpowering. It's pleasingly flavoursome. The bitterness and sweetness are well-balanced throughout, from the first sip to the final smack of the mouth. 

Whilst it isn't a huge beer it's very classy and slowly builds into a really great beer. Personally, I find taste-filled pale and blonde beers are lower in supply than their darker cousins but That's Just Me. The best drinks are those that grow on you through the glass and this is one of them. It's definitely a beer to buy again, to share with a good friend or two, or just to get nicely drunk on your lonesome...

Lupulus - 9

http://www.lupulus.be/en/beer-lupulus-blond.html

Tuesday 17 April 2012

A beer called Leroy

Leroy Stout - 5%

I'm a fan of stouts and porters. Roasty, smoky flavours can't beaten for big flavours and they're the perfect antithesis to insipid lager. I'm a fan of something a little quirky too, so a stout named Leroy was too tempting. I'll have two, please. Plus, this wasn't any stout, it was a Belgian stout.

It then struck me that I hadn't had too many Belgian stouts in my time; I suppose they're not so common. Guinness Foreign Export classes as a 'Belgian Stout' in some people's eyes (even though some of it is brewed in Nigeria!) and my other experience of note is Hercule Stout, a seriously fine ale.  Expectations were high.

Pouring the drink out presents no surprises; it's a dark, fairly fizzy beer with a tightly packed, light brown head. As soon as I took a sniff, the game changed. It actually took me two glasses of this beer to work out what the smell was, so much it took me by surprise. It smells like a sweet, aromatic lager. There's no bitterness in the smell and the hops come through strongly. It was certainly interesting.

On sipping, you're presented with huge and instant sweetness. Sweetness you wouldn't expect in such a dark beer. And it builds! That saccharin keeps coming. Initially, I loved it; it had such an original taste and was as quirky as I hoped. As time goes on though, it really needs something to balance out that sweetness. Alcoholic strength would probably help (it's only 5%) but really (and unsurprisingly) a good roasted barley sharpness is what's in order!

Its lack of balance prevents it from quenching your thirst and the stickiness it leaves in your mouth (which I'm often keen on) is too sweet to enjoy. If you burp you get a light, lagery hop aroma; it's fairly pleasant but just a bit peculiar. 

It's a conundrum; I'm not sure where they've managed to get their colour from. To get dark beer like this you need to add malt which has been fairly highly roasted and this adds bitterness. As this beer is bitter-free I can only guess that some dark sugar has been added and the beer has been on a long boil in the  kettle to add colour. I'm probably wrong but I'm not sure how else you'd get the colour.

There'll be someone out there who will love this beer, but it's a bit too sweet for me. I had to eat really strong and bitter cheese with it to get through the second bottle (ooh, it's a chore!). P.s., if you know how this beer would be made, I'd love to know!


Leroy Stout - 5.5

http://www.brouwerijhetsas.be/en/assortiment/leroy-stout

Tuesday 3 April 2012

Dobbel Tripel

Dobbel Tripel. That sounds an awful lot like 'double triple'. Exciting times...

Once again I find myself in front of a bottle of beer which I'd usually not even have noticed. Forcing yourself to drink (well not exactly 'forcing', but...) everything on a list has its highs as well as lows. My first discovery was to be whether this beer was dark or light: was it 'dobbel' or 'tripel'? 

It was a dark offering, dark indeed. With a bubbling beige head it sat enticingly in the glass, waiting to be sampled. It had a really rich, fruity and deep scent; this beer clearly had lots to give. There was a definite edge of cinnamon and nutmeg spice ('woody', one might say if one was in the marketing department for Hugo Boss Fragrances) and it reminded me a little of the magnificent Westvleteren 12. We're not getting carried away but it's fair comparison.

Onto a sip, and what I would usually discover is that these strong beers often lull you into a sense that they're weaker than you'd think. The Oostendsebier has a fantastic warming sensation that you associate with nice boozy things. This beer was quite reminiscent of sherry in its taste, rich with fruit and spice. It always makes me laugh that sherry is so poo-pooed, generally speaking,  yet countless whiskies would be nothing without it and its flavours coming through anything always put a smile on your face. Perhaps we're all closet Nannas.

Once you've taken your heady sip there's more to come. The aftertaste is thick and pleasingly sweet without being cloying. If you like dark beers with malty, sweet flavours there's not a lot else you can ask for than a beer like this. Compared, say, to Kasteel Donker, it has a much better balance and is much more palatable and easier to drink. I may not be the most critical critic but there are times when the glass is empty and you have to ask yourself what more would you have wanted from the beer you've just finished. In this case, I'd have to say pretty much nothing, except perhaps a prettier bottle for it to sit in. Harsh, I know.

Keyte Oostendse Dobbel Tripel - 9.5

http://www.brouwerij-strubbe.be/start/bieren/en

Thursday 22 March 2012

Popping My Cherry

Echte Kriek 6.8%

Now, I'm not a fan a fruit beers really. They're often overly sweet and a bit thin, straying as far from beer as possible, or they're made from hardcore Lambic beers. Both have their place, and the latter I really appreciate and want to like (but wild yeast is just a bit too funky for this boy) but I guess it's prevented me from delving further. So I took a deep breath and plonked one in my basket.

To increase my apprehension, I noticed the bottle cap sported the same emblem as the Duchesse de Bourgogne; that of the Verhaeghe brewery. The Duchesse was a Flemish Red Ale, matured in an old-fashioned way, allowed to mingle with lactobacilli and wild yeast (cue funkiness). The Red Ale didn't take this writer's fancy so I wasn't hopeful.

In complete contrast to age-old traditions and idiosyncratic yeast strains, Echte Kriek couldn't have looked more like Vimto if it tried. The head was as tight and frothy as fizzy pop, with a tinge of pink to it, whilst the ale itself was a vibrant red. Were things looking up? 

Yes, as it happened, they were. The aroma was gorgeous, thick with sour cherries and a lovely warm spiciness. Cherries have that interesting headiness to them on their skins; there's an Eastern, musky scent that isn't quite fruity. This beer smelled of all that loveliness, plus a bit of pep and zing.

The texture was very frothy too. There's plenty of gas in this beer, but it doesn't make it too much like fizzy pop, it gives it a Champagnesque edge. 

The taste is a balance of bittersweet and... well, bittersweet. The Lambic beer is mouth-strippingly dry and refreshing but then follows a sweet, sticky finish. It makes your mouth want another wash of the dry stuff to counterbalance the viscous tang left over. The cherries offer an initial sweetness, which then develops into a sourness. As you can see, these two elements dovetail wonderfully, offering plenty of sensation as well as taste. All the while the exotic muskiness of the cherry lingers.

What I love about this beer is that it teaches me a lesson; fruit Lambic beers exist for a reason: they make Lambics drinkable. In this instance it proves that they can be delicious too. It's not alcopoppy, as some can lean towards and it includes enough fruit to make it big on the taste front. I really want to like in-your-face Lambics, I really do. I remember getting very excited before trying a Cantillon Rose de Gambrinus (a Raspberry Lambic from a very serious brewer of these beers) and just wasn't man enough to enjoy it. I ploughed on through, 'enjoying the experience' but I wouldn't buy another. Echte Kriek, however... same again please!

Echte Kriek - 9

http://www.brouwerijverhaeghe.be/ (Flemish only)

Thursday 8 March 2012

A Progressive Champion

Boerken

A new Belgian beer always fills me with excitement; sometimes they disappoint (Belgoo) but there are plenty which are seeking new taste frontiers whilst remaining distinctly Belgian. After being disappointed by Bloemen Bier a couple of weeks ago I inadvertently return to De Proefbrouerwij for a glass of Boerken, what could be described as a Belgian nut-brown ale.

It comes in a long-necked bottle with a swing top (my favourite) with the logo printed directly onto the bottle: no labels here. It's a handsome and simple design; the sort of bottle which leaves you wanting to know more.

The best way to discover is to pop open that swinger and get pouring.  It's a deep, deep ruby colour without a huge head and the aroma gets it off to a flying start. Without being too wanky I'd say it's a bit like treacle on burnt toast (the sort of burnt toast smell that's nice to wake up to, not the sort that sets the fire alarm off). There's plenty of sweetness involved, too. It's distinctly Belgian but has elements of British classics in there.

The texture is wonderful: not too thin, not too thick. The nuttiness really comes out here and is mixed with a lovely sweet aroma and taste. The aftertaste continues this theme with superb balance. The malt ploughs on through and there is a gentle, sweet hop bitterness.

It's a hefty 9.5% but is such a class act that it goes down very easily and is a real delight. Boerken is the craft beer fan's champion; it combines tradition, progression and oozes class from the first sip to the last. Unfortunately, there's usually a downside and here it's price. At £4.50 per 330ml it's got to be an occasional treat rather than your regular tipple. Maybe that makes it even more worthwhile to savour.

Boerken 9.5

http://www.proefbrouwerij.com/index.aspx?lng=en

Tuesday 28 February 2012

Fool's Gold

Brugse Zot

I nearly didn't write this blog, thinking that perhaps this beer is a bit too well known and you've all tried it before, but it might just be me who's been drinking this for years. Plus the fact that I visited De Halve Maan brewery on my honeymoon means this beer's often at the forefront of my mind.

Regardless, let's get on with it. I must start with my oft-included label review. Zot has one of those crap-but-I-like-it labels. 'Zot' means 'fool' and there's a fairly crummy picture of a jester chap prancing about and the typeface is pretty cheap. It's a mystery why some cheap labels have charm and others fill me with exasperation. I think in Brugse Zot's case it looks like a genuine attempt to come up with a great label but it hasn't quite worked. Setting up a brewery's expensive enough so you can't blame them for not forking out on snazzy labels.

Zot is a Blonde beer coming in at 6% so it's walking on steady shoes, but also a very well-trodden path. I find some Blonde beers like this can offer very little and come across as just a strong glass of Stella. Of course, Zot isn't, otherwise I wouldn't be wasting my time writing this.

It comes across very well with an alluring syrupy, lightly malted aroma. A distinct melon whiff was a nice treat; it's not something I usually find. Bread and butter came through too. It's not often that I get such specifics so it made me feel as though I had an accomplished nose. Whoever thought a beer could flatter you!

In the mouth, its texture is good, with I'd say a perfect level of carbonation (though we all like different things). There's a coriander flavour to it with a hint of hop and a gorgeous round sweetness to it.

The finish is fairly ordinary but very clean and balanced with just a short bitter moment. I even drank the yeasty bit at the bottom of the bottle because I wanted just that little bit more! To be honest I think some people (not all mind!) get a bit too flustered about a bit of yeast in the glass. I find it harmless, and even have it on good authority that it'll help prevent hangovers!

Anyhow, this was a beer that I hadn't in a long while as it was so good at the brewery I worried it'd live up to it. It did. Op uw gezondheid!

Brugse Zot - 8

http://www.halvemaan.be/index.php?id=15&L=2

Friday 17 February 2012

Flowery Bloomers

Bloemen Bier 7%

From Proefbrouerwij, a craft brewery that takes itself very seriously (see their website), is a rather fanciful offering. Bloemen Bier is brewed with flowers and plants to give it a unique taste. They've also presented it in a fairly original fashion, wrapping in paper: something you only really see in fruit beer. But, I suppose, flowers and plants are getting in that direction. There's something of a hand-drawn element to the design on the paper which gives it a friendly, approachable air. Of course, once you take it off you're left with a plain bottle and the beer needs to start speaking for itself.

Once poured, the beer has a rich, cloudy and golden brown appearance. If you're familiar with Anchor Liberty Ale then you'll know what I mean. The head is tightly packed and has a cream-coloured froth to it.

Once you pop your nose over the glass you know this beer is a bit of something different. Those flowers and plants (god knows what type though) are doing their stuff. It's a skippy, light and heady aroma which, in fairness to Proefbrouerwij, is reminiscent of summer. Whilst there's no fruit in it (I presume, anyway) it's a very strawberry-like smell with delicious floral hops involved. It's really special.

However, all good things.... Unfortunately, when you start to drink it, it's very sweet. There are sweet beers, and then there's this one. Compare it to, for example, a fairly sweet raspberry lambic like Timmermans or Lindemans might make; the difference is that these, and all fruit lambics, have a sour base to them which counterbalances the sweetness, making them quite refreshing. Bloemen Bier is fermented with more traditional ale yeast which means the 'flowers and plants' and sweetness make it a bit cloying.

In your mouth it's quite syrupy and fairly pleasant at first but as time goes on it's fairly difficult to get through. The aftertaste doesn't  help as it's virtually devoid of bitterness. 

It's difficult not to enjoy this beer in some respects, but it's also quite difficult to finish a glass! Perhaps it's a good idea to try on someone who's not convinced on beer. If they're into sweet white wine this might be more palatable.

Bloemen Bier - 5

http://www.proefbrouwerij.com/index.aspx?lng=en

Wednesday 1 February 2012

Inconspicuous Delight

Witkap Pater

On first inspection this bottle of beer looks like any other Abbey-style Dubbel brown beer. In fact, it's so inconspicuous, you may be forgiven for thinking you can see the bottle of beer that's sat behind it on the shelf (yes ok I buy online but I'm trying to paint a picture here, people). It looks cheap. Very cheap. But, what's that!? Is it a... No! It can't be. It's a monk on the label! Well blow me down. In fairness he looks a little Robin Hood-y and he's got a white hood on. He's not fat, bald or cheery so I suppose I'm being harsh.

Ok, you guessed it, I wasn't really expecting any great shakes from this beer. But, hey, you've got to give everything a chance. That's what I'm doing: sifting the wheat from the chaff. 

Pouring this beer presents no surprises; there's a fairly deep brown colour and a nice, tightly bubbled head which sticks around for a bit. The aroma is what takes you back; this beer must have been dry-hopped with some very citrussy hops. Think Sierra Nevada, think Little Creatures. Amarillo, Centennial hops and the type have been used. You wouldn't think it'd go in a Abbey-style Dubbel but it does, except that, in my opinion, it kind of stops it being an Abbey-style beer. Nonetheless, it's a hybrid of some kind that really works well.

It retains the thick, creamy texture you'd associate with Belgium. It's still got the sweetness which is just right, but in this beer's case, the hops give it that dry, refreshing sensation you'd associate with US brown ale. It really goes down easily!

Of course, there are sacrifices. You don't get the sweet banana aromas and certainly none of warm, malty goodness that you'd expect. But as an alternative it certainly shines as an experiment gone very well. Its also got its own idiosyncrasies; there's a very gentle, smoky, musty aroma to it as you go down the glass. The sort of smell that reminds you that it's handmade, with a kind of barnyard feel to it. More your Nan's cellar as opposed to funky goat's cheese.

This is an every day drinker that won't disappoint your taste buds or your thirsty mouth. The bottle certainly doesn't make it stand out from the pack but its well-put-together character means it should. Oh, yeah, the brewery's called Slaghmuylder (snigger).

Witkap Pater 8.5

http://www.witkap.be/witkap/witkap_eng/Home.html

Friday 27 January 2012

Meet Guido

A bit of something different, that's what I'm on the lookout for. Sure, a bit of class and finesse goes a long way but every now and then you want something to make you sit back and say 'wow'. Enter Guido. It's made by Smisje brewery who claim to be the smallest commercial brewery in Belgium, with an output of 200 hectolitres of beer per year. That's 20,000l to you and I (or 35,000 pints). It makes you realise the scale that even 'micro' breweries put out, if these guys are the smallest. Anyway, enough of stats. This beer has a name: Guido. I like it. It's a shame the others aren't called Filipo and Ignacios or something, but they're not. Still, there's a drawing of this Guido chap on the bottle; I'm sure it's in honour of him but who cares, this beer's made with RAISINS. Yeah, raisins!

It's dark, it's rich, it's big! The smell is unsurprisingly fruity but it still takes you back to sniff again. The spicy, sweet maltiness rounds it off. Appearance-wise, it's dark and fairly forboding, with murkiness and floaty stuff in it (great!). Some people are put off by this sort of stuff but I think it really reinforces that beer can be a crafted drink which is living, breathing and changing like we do. Besides, beer with a bit of muck in it is usually tastier too.

If you can finally get round to trying it you're in for a treat. Everything you've smelled you've got in your mouth. The aftertaste is long like a rich sherry and it's a very sweet beer. It's certainly not a fruit beer though, it's completely different. Most of the genuine fruit beers are formed from Lambic beer, made from wild yeast and this is certainly not, which makes it pretty unique, I'd say (although I'm sure there are other raisin beers out there). 

My main concern though was how rich it was. Would a bottle be too much? It's got such big flavours and it was incredibly rich; I thought it might be one of those dark beers which taste amazing for the first few sips but become difficult to finish a glass. Wrong! So very happily wrong was I. It got easier and easier as the glass got emptier and I was pretty bummed out once it was over. Ah well, there's always next time!

If you're searching for a challenging beer that isn't too over the top, this should definitely be on your list. 

Smisje Guido - 10

http://smisje.belgianbeerboard.com/images/bieren/guido.jpg

Tuesday 17 January 2012

Super Fagnes

You may think that as I title this post 'super' Fagnes I think it's pretty great but that's simply it's name. Super Des Fagnes Blonde to be precise. Is it aimed at homeless alcoholics you cry? Well, no, although I'm sure they'd appreciate its 7.5% strength; to be honest I'm not sure why it's called Super; maybe that's what they think of it.

I bought it because of its mildly peculiar name. Certainly not because of its forgettable label or diminutive size (why 250ml, chaps?). You won't find any extra fluff on their website, either. This is clearly the product of a very small operation and it shows in the beer.

It's a lovely blonde colour with a good head which sticks to the side of the glass on the way down. The fizz level is spot on and feels great in the mouth.

Aromatically it ticks boxes. Citrus, fresh barley, honey, mild zingy spice with a touch of booze saying hello. I didn't get any of the liquorice that was promised on the website I bought it from. Maybe my palate isn't up to scratch. I couldn't give a monkey's though because it has pretty much everything I want in a blonde (ale).

Take a sip and it keeps giving. All the aromas are represented in the taste and the texture rounds it off as a really good beer. The aftertaste is also very good with lovely initial sweetness but a good bitterness to keep it rounded.

It's a lively beer with plenty going on and lots to like about it. There's not an awful lot to say against it, really. If you've tried Tripel Karmeliet (you should if you haven't), this beer is not dissimilar to it. It's less cloudy, less alcoholic and is a more smoother, rounder beer. It's not life-changing, more life-affirming. Definitely one to buy again.

Super des Fagnes Blonde - 9

http://www.fagnes.com/

Tuesday 10 January 2012

Trappist, not bestist

Monks eh? They've got a flippin' racket going on. Only 7 Trappist breweries exist in the world. One isn't in Belgium (it's in the Netherlands) and another you can't really buy from unless you really make an effort (the size of the effort depends on where you live). So the 5 accessible Belgian Trappist breweries lay claim to a large portion of a market that sells itself on tradition and religious affiliation. I'm sure that many a pious deed is completed with the money made but is the beer any good?


I'm returning to Westmalle beer, one of the first Trappists I tried. Their Dubbel to me was the blueprint to which all others were referenced. Surprisingly to me, a lot surpassed it and I now don't really bother with it unless I'm in a bar where it presents itself as the only thing worth buying (not often). It's no bad beer but unexciting. So I move on to their Tripel today to see if that can offer joy.


It's a mildly cloudy and very pale beer with a typical Belgian head; something which can be coaxed into excitement if desired. It's got fizz to give but not too much. 


Aromatically, it's got a strong banana side to it to start with. There's a suggestion of allspice too but not a lot going on. Booze comes through to be honest. At 9.5% you'd think I shouldn't be surprised but I do find myself commenting how many Belgian beers seem a lot smoother and tamer than they actually are, but not in this case. It hits you in the face.


Taste-wise, there's nothing earth-shattering here (unless you forgot to check the strength on the label and your nose is broken) as alcohol once shows its tactless face. And not a lot else above that. It's pale and sweetish.


The aftertaste is impressively long. The bitterness goes on and on. And on. It's about 40% hops and 60% alcohol influenced.


The 9.5% steals the show here and doesn't leave much else to show its face. Which is a bit of a shame really as I really want to like Westmalle. There's something very uncomplicated and genuine about the way they present themselves but unfortunately neither of their beers are worth shouting about. Unless you're shouting 'make your ruddy beers better!'


If you're into your blonde beers and really want to try a Belgian Trappist then you've pretty much got Achel and that's it. Luckily, it's very good and worth a go. There is of course the Dutch Trappists, La Trappe, who offer a Blonde, Dubbel, Tripel, Quadruple and Witbier. It's been too long since I've tried them to comment but I remember enjoying them.


On other fronts, Rochefort is always excellent but dark and murky, Orval may be your cup of tea but not mine. Chimay is very unimpressive. Of course, there's the exquisite Westvleteren but you'll do well to find it (but do read my post on it, 'The Holy Grail').


The moral of this story is, if you want excellent Belgian beer, it doesn't have to be Trappist. That just means monks are involved (perhaps sometimes in place of brewers). 


Westmalle Tripel - 5


http://www.trappistwestmalle.be/en/page/tripel.aspx