Friday 23 December 2011

The 10 Beers of Christmas (or, Why the Chuff Didn't I Buy 12?) - Day 10

Day 12 - Bush Noel


Here we are on day 10, rounding off with a 12% beer, callously reminding me of the number 12 which I so failed to reach.


Bush is a beer that has long been in my consciousness. Way back at the beginning of my drinking days in Belgo in Bristol, this was the one on the menu that we all were acutely aware of. 12%! we couldn't believe it. In my naive little world it was the strongest beer there was and the only of it's kind. Of course it isn't.


10 years down the line (yikes!) and it's one I'm fairly familiar with. The Noel version is adorned with stars and sits innocently in your fridge, waiting to entertain you. The funny thing about it is that it isn't an overwhelming beer. It's fairly ordinary, in fact.


The aroma is a mildly yeasty, caramel flavour with spicy overtones. There is a gentle but rich alcohol presence; the Santa's sack enveloping the presents that are the other flavours (see what I did there?). It's got a very warming character and will definitely help to keep you cosy on a cold, winter night.


It's pretty fizzy with a light brown, uncomplicated look to it. It's impressively clear for such a strong ale. Halfway down the glass I had an epiphany (as you do when drinking 12% beer): it's the St Bernardus Christmas beer in a suit, nearly concealing all of it's huge character, but not quite.


Flavour-wise, it's not moving any mountains; the gentle spices give it a lovely roundedness and the alcohol wraps it up very well. There is a really sweet aftertaste that's very comforting and the rich warmth is at levels you'd usually expect from a Speyside single malt whisky. The bitterness is there but only just; offering itself as a necessity if nothing else.


Bush Noel is very tasty and exceedingly easy to drink. If you want to get pissed this Christmas, drink this and ye shall be merry indeed.


For those who want to take it a step further, (because a 12% beer is clearly not enough) Dubuisson offer a 'Bush des Nuits' which is this beer oak aged for 6 months and presented in a very smart 750ml bottle. Pricey though.


Bush Noel - 8
Christmas rating - 10


http://www.br-dubuisson.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=13&Itemid=17〈=en

Thursday 22 December 2011

The 10 Beers of Christmas (or, Why the Chuff Didn't I Buy 12?) - Day 9

Day 9 - Abbaye des Rocs Speciale Noel


This is one I'd tried last year and was looking forward to getting my chops around it again. I like the label of this beer, it's kind of a stained glass window effect and very festive in quite a traditional way that's suited to an Abbey.


It's a very rustic affair which reminds me hugely of Trappistes Rochefort no 6. It's a similar strength to the number 8 but I haven't had that one enough to say that this one is like that. Regardless of which one it's like, Rochefort is up there in my opinion as making some of the world's best beers so it's a high accolade.


The main problem with this beer was that it was another erupter. The exacerbating factor with beers like this is that some people like to leave the sediment at the bottom (although I'm the camp of 'bung it all in') and it basically churns it all up. This resulted in no head on the beer, but there was still plenty of fizziness left behind. It's one of those champagnesque bubblers. Now it starts looking up.


It's a dark, murky brown beer with heaps of sediment; it's positively teeming with chunks of this and that. There's a heavy malt smell with clove, cinnamon and aniseed but in very well-balanced terms. It's got a tang, which I was about to describe as unique, but then remembered it's the one that you get in Rochefort beers. It's tangy, slightly musty and very distinctive. The high level of alcohol (9%) really helps this.


The taste brings more development. Dark chocolate comes first then dissipates to a rich coffee which sticks around in your mouth. Unfortunately, like all great guests, it has to leave but it parts with a gift; a short bitter finish and lots of sweetness.


The musty elements may not be to everyone's taste but that is what is so great about beer from Belgium; there really is something for everyone's taste. Indeed, they make stuff for virtually no-one's taste too (lambics anyone?). This is one I'm going to rate highly as it really is my cup of tea. It may not be yours but give it a shot.


Abbaye des Rocs Speciale Noel - 9
Christmas rating - 8


http://www.abbaye-des-rocs.com/page%20en%20anglais.htm

Wednesday 21 December 2011

The 10 Beers of Christmas (or, Why the Chuff Didn't I Buy 12?) - Day 8

Day 8 - Tongerlo Christmas

As the daily drinking nears its end I'm presented with my first disappointment of the pack.

Tongerlo is a brewery which I've only tried once before. I don't remember much about the 'Prior', but as it was over two years ago that doesn't necessarily say much.

The Christmas beer, as well as being the LEAST festive label you could conceive, is also the weakest of the gang, coming in at only 7% - pah, it's virtually water (!!). It's an amber beer. I could stop there. If you've tried amber ale from Belgium, e.g. De Koninck, you've tried this. It's no game-changer.

It's starts well with nice, excitable head on it and it has a fine hue. All good, so far. It's got the appearance of a best bitter; the head has a lovely, slightly golden tint to it.

It smells like... well, beer. It's crisp. It's clean. There's hints of malt, hops, yeast and errr, water... Blimey that's what they make beer out of! It's mildly malty and easy to drink. The finish is clean.

If you ever meet someone who hasn't tried beer before, offer them this - they'll be blown away! There's no point in me describing this beer anymore because it tastes like beer. Nice beer.

I'm not trying to suggest that it isn't good, because it's not a bad beer. It's fine. I just think there are more exciting things to drink. I'm being a little harsh because, as for this beer being Christmassy... puhleeease.

Tongerlo Christmas - 5

Christmas rating - 2

http://www.tongerlo.be/tongerlo.php?lg=uk

Tuesday 20 December 2011

The 10 Beers of Christmas (or, Why the Chuff Didn't I Buy 12?) - Day 7

Day 7 - La Gauloise Christmas

La Gauloise comes from Brasserie du Bocq, owner of many sub-brands of beer. Last year I tried 'Bocq Christmas' and enjoyed it a lot, but couldn't get hold of it this year. When Gauloise Christmas showed up, it looked awfully similar. The same, super-cheesy Santa adorns its label. After checking Bocq's website, it's got the same ABV and there's no page for this Gauloise edition - are they both the same beer!? It's a shame I've not got two to compare but I'd wager they are.

It's a ruby beer with a very good head with good staying power. It's not too fizzy but an easy drinker.

Aromatically speaking, there's light fruitiness and spices involved, all gently offered with a warming effect. The alcohol presence comes through very well, without being too much. It gives it a bit of body to the smell to round it all off. Nice.

It's one of the most flavoursome beers of the pack, offering plenty to chew over. The outstanding flavour is strawberry jam, with pectin-like sweetness giving a lovely thick saliva to mull over.  Returning to smell it, all of a sudden the fruitiness originally present is given a strawberry character which is great.

What's most striking about the beer is that is an incredibly light-bodied affair for a dark beer. It's light and fluffy in your mouth and a very quaffable ale. As you continue to drink it the spices come through as anise and ginger (the latter became present in a burp!).

I've got to rate it highly for its sophistication and warmth, which is most important for this time of the year. You may have read the previous entry extolling the virtues of Abbey St Martin's Christmas effort and I think this one's very similar in character.

La Gauloise Christmas - 8.5
Christmas rating - 8

http://www.bocq.be/english/ownbrands/bocq-christmas.php

Monday 19 December 2011

The 10 Beers of Christmas (or, Why the Chuff Didn't I Buy 12?) - Day 6

Day 6 - Abbey St Martin Cuvée de Noël

After nearly a week of drinking festive ale I've been overpowered by aniseed or alcohol in most of the offerings. I was looking for the sort of beer to relax with -something homely - and I think I've found it.

Cuvée de Noël doesn't blow your socks off with overwhelming tastes or flavours but it's a very drinkable beer which (really importantly) improves as you drink it.  You can tell by the label (just a couple or stars and a red trim added to the standard design) that Abbaye de St Martin are taking a considered approach to a Christmas beer.

It's a slightly cloudy, ruby beer with nice medium head. There are mild wheaty aromas; a faint banana sniff and yeast. What they've importantly managed to do is introduce aniseed at a pleasant and not over-powering level. After this week's dark beers I'm delighted at this feature! There's a nice blend of other seasonal spices to give it rounded appeal. It's slightly lacking fizz or sparkle in the mouth but that does make it easy to drink. 

In the mouth, the smokiness or woodiness is tough to locate but it is present and a minimal smidgen of clove also shows its face. Whilst some of the flavours are harder to find I shouldn't complain as they're very well balanced. The aftertaste continues in this form and is lovely and sweet.

The more I drunk the beer the more I liked it. If beer had personality this would be a cheery landlord who's got a smile for everyone: it's hard not to like! I'd really recommend this beer if you're trying to convince someone that strong, Belgian beer is the way forward. In fact, I recommend it to you all!

Abbaye de St Martin Cuvée de Noël - 8.5

Christmas rating - 8

http://brunehaut.com/stm4.php

Sunday 18 December 2011

The 10 Beers of Christmas (or, Why the Chuff Didn't I Buy 12?) - Day 5

Day 5 - Enghien Noel


I tried this one (but not the Christmas version) a month or so back and found it to be a peculiar beast but quite enjoyable. With a festive twist, would this be the star on top of the tree, or the pine needles stuck in the carpet?


It's a dark blonde colour but I found it to be lacking fizz or head. I managed to coax a head out of the second glass but perhaps at the expense of liveliness in the glass which is a shame and fairly basic.


It's aroma is an exciting affair with very interesting butter and vanilla aroma with a hint of smoky jacket (remember the pleasant smell your clothes used to adopt after a night out before the smoking ban?). It's not the kind of wood fire smoke that we want, it was a bit jarring. On the second sniff there was more pleasant cinder toffee and finally honey.


The taste is a little odd too. The fag smoke lingered and was coupled with some harsh bitterness which was not balanced with any sweetness.


Happily it improves a lot with food as the bitterness is mostly masked and the pine elements that are present in the original come through too. However, once your grub's finished, it's back!


This beer is unfortunately a little bit too wacky and the flavours just jar a little too much to make it a good beer. It's still not a terrible beer, just a little odd.


Enghien Noel - 6
Christmas rating - 7


http://www.silly-beer.com/p_noel_en.htm

Saturday 17 December 2011

The 10 Beers of Christmas (or, Why the Chuff Didn't I Buy 12?) - Day 4

Day 4 - St Bernadus Christmas


St Bernadus is one of those beers which blends into the 'monk gang'. The name is easy to forget and the label is a chirpy monk proffering a glass of beer (in this case with a Santa hat on). So much so, that I've an empty bottle of the 'ABT 12' - the year-round version of this beer - in my house but I've totally forgotten whether I liked it or not.


Well, I liked this one. A lot. It's a brown beer, but not too dark and the head is fairly impressive. It doesn't leave peaks as it falls but it's nearly there. As I was pouring from a 750ml bottle, my first glass was crystal clear and second was slightly cloudy. No bother to me though, give me murk any day.


It's a real selection box of smells. It begins with an estery aroma and gently spiced with soaked raisins. Not quite like a Christmas pud but nearly there and a slight woodiness too. If you've been lucky enough to try chocolate figgy pudding - this is it!


The sophisticated flavours continue into the mouth and blend into a warm, comforting sensation with a very well-controlled strength (10%). There is the hint of sourness to give the sumptuous warmth a wee bit of bite and edge. The excellent balance continues into the aftertaste with gentle bitterness complementing the sweet saliva in your mouth. It could be one of those beers to give a little bit too much thickness to finish off with but it's perfect.


Whilst it may be contained in a forgettable bottle, this beer is nothing but. It's a superstar with tonnes of flavour; the slightest hint of iron at the beginning stops it getting full marks. What struck me was its similarity with the much lauded and revered Westvleteren XII. If you can't get your hands on the XII (which is pretty likely!) then this should give you a good idea of what you're missing.


St Bernadus Christmas - 9.5
Christmas rating - 10


http://www.sintbernardus.be/en/beers.html

Friday 16 December 2011

The 10 Beers of Christmas (or, Why the Chuff Didn't I Buy 12?) - Day 3

Day 3 - Gouden Carolus Christmas

Het Anker are definitely big boys of the Belgian scene, although they still are a member of the 'Belgian Family Brewers' and they're producers of seasonal beers throughout the year.

Christmas is no different and here's their offering. I'm beginning to see a pattern emerging with Christmas beers. They're very strong (haven't had one under 9% yet) and they love liquorice!! There's a quaint, night-time snowy scene with Santa and his reindeer flying over - very festive and heart-warming. This beer also has the strength to warm you up on a winter night.

Gouden Carolus Christmas is all about liqourice. It's a very dark beer with a lovely deep ruby colour; certainly one to admire with a good creamy head, too. I was enjoying it in my new Gouden Carolus glass which, for some reason, is only 25cl - odd!

Aromatically, you've guessed what's coming: liquorice... and not a lot else. I tried and tried but wasn't finding a lot else. I left it and took a break to come back for a fresh approach but just couldn't glean a lot else.

It obviously continued through to the mouth and aftertaste (lots!) but rather than it obscure other flavours, it was the only one! It wasn't a bad beer, just pretty one-dimensional. One thing I should commend it on is the control of its strength (10.5%); it's a very smooth and sophisticated effort.

I'm hoping that the next few beers on the list aren't a bunch of liquorice allsorts but if they are, maybe it's a Belgian Christmas tradition that I'm oblivious to! We shall see.

Gouden Carolus - 6
Christmas rating - 8

http://www.hetanker.be/DeBrouwerij/AlOnzeBieren/GoudenCarolusChristmas/tabid/67/language/en-US/Default.aspx

Thursday 15 December 2011

The 10 Beers of Christmas (or, Why the Chuff Didn't I Buy 12?) - Day 2

So onward we trundle through the festive offerings from Belgium and here's something I wasn't expecting: a Blonde beer!

Day 2 - Bonne Secours Blonde de Noël

I don't know why but I was expecting a bunch of brown beers. This one shakes up the pack. But we like a bit of variety.

It's presented in a very nice bottle with a very long neck and (my favourite!) a swing-top lid. You can't beat the sight of the vapour creeping slowly out of the bottle top. Ok, you can but it's nice all the same!

Label wise we got santa walking across a snowy scene and... Wait there! It's a girl! Oh-ho, I see what you're doing, she's blonde... Hmm, right. Fair enough. Once poured there's a fast-fading head and the blonde appearance (of the beer, that is) is nothing to get excited about.

But enough of trivial matters, there's beer to be sniffed and supped. Sniffing is something you'd do well to do a lot of with this beer as it smells terrific. It's full of interesting aromas like sweet vanilla, buttery toffee and even apple sauce. What's a real treat is that it builds as you drink. I often find that the aroma is hard to locate after a few minutes but this one keeps growing. Well done Bonne Secours.

Where it excels in aroma it unfortunately falls controlling the alcohol presence. It's beers like this which could (wrongly) give people the impression that 10% is too strong for a beer. It's pretty much the only thing present in the mouth and also dominates the aftertaste. There are plenty of nice flavours in the background though so it's a really nice beer but the potency of the alcohol isn't contained. That was with a plate of spicy food, too.

On a final note, it's not reeeally that Christmassy either. It might taste quite like a toffee penny but that's clutching at straws really. All in all, worth a try but be warned; it's a little unruly.

Bonne Secours Blonde de Noël - 8
Christmas rating - 6

http://fr.brasseriecaulier.com/noel (French only)

Wednesday 14 December 2011

The 10 Beers of Christmas (or, Why the Chuff Didn't I Buy 12?) - Day 1

Christmas beers: a festive treat or massive scam to make us buy more beer?

Err, buying and drinking beer isn't a chore, people!

I'm going to churn out some concise(ish) blogs on Christmas beer rounding up a bevy of Belgian festive offerings. I shall consider them as stand-alone beers but also on their level of festivity.

Day 1 - St Feuillien Cuvée de Noël

St Feuillien's Grand Cru didn't impress me much so how will its Christmas beer fare?

First things first, I like the image on the label. They've included some chap wandering in a snowy scene. Is that a bag of hops he's carrying? Not sure but that's definitely a Christmas tree he's walking past! Nice and festive.

I'd describe it as a Dubbel, style-wise, with a rich brown colour and a yellowish head.  It's a fast-fading head, reducing to a minimum bubble so enjoy it before it's gone.

It's big on the aroma front with lots of festive scents. The element of banana is a nice surprise but there's cloves and anise involved, too, along with the expected caramel malt.

To be honest, the level of anise is slightly too much for me as it continues quite prominently in the mouth. However, if you love liqourice then you may be more partial to this beer than I am.

The aftertaste is dry and bitter and is wanting a little sweetness, particularly considering the savoury spices involved.

I commend St Feuillien for making sure this beer meets festive requirements with the inclusion of spices and its 9% is suitably warming and well handled. For me, though, the balance is tipped too much toward the aniseed flavour and it's a bit overpowering so drops points there.

St Feuillien Cuvée de Noël - 6.5
Christmas rating - 8

http://www.st-feuillien.com/FbieresENG.html

Monday 12 December 2011

Pig's Ear

CAMRA's got it's critics. It's got its stereotypes too. Are they right? Well, the stereotypes are for sure but I think their critics can be harsh. Whilst the 28th Pig's Ear Beer Festival had more beards than an Amish beard appreciation society there was a welcoming atmosphere and a pleasing inclusion of foreign ales. Most interestingly so Italian.

Arriving at a festival requires a minute or so's acclimatisation to work out where you're going and what's where. Although we were welcomed as fresh blood (i.e. under 50) there were smiles and jokes for all and nothing of the exclusivity of CAMRA that has been spoken of. My one niggle is the glass issue. £4 entry is fine but £3 for a glass is a but much. But bygones are bygones and a lesson is learnt - I'll take one next time!

What I was most pleased with was the international presence there. Whilst of course no where near the level of British entries there was a nice little section of Italian (a craft brewing hothouse apparently), German, Belgian and other European beers, admittedly lots bottled but nonetheless a welcome alternative.

My accomplice and I started with an Italian encounter; one of the features which had drawn us there. I a Darker Shade of Pale from White Dog, he a Grunge IPA from ELAV. The former was possibly the muddiest beer I've drank in a while, but I commend its balls. Maybe I got the end of the end of the barrell, I'm not sure, but it was something to behold. It was as opaque as a strong coffee with a spit of milk in it. The aroma screamed hops and the scrapings of a barbecue grill, along with a rather funky cannabis scent. All most brazen and to be applauded. It was a rough diamond, to be sure, but with its lengthy, bitter, aftertaste, not to be ignored.

I didn't get as much if a go at the Grunge but it was more refined and had an excellent minty, hopped smell and definitely the choice brew of the two: something nice and different. Italy can carry on what it's doing!

We moved along to Germany (as you do) to sample a Schlenkerla Urbock, pumped peculiarly from the top of the barrel. If you've not had a Rauchbier before, it's made from barley that's been smoked giving the most pronounced smoke flavour; it's like drinking a smoked sausage. After a few sips it fades away (but not completely) to present a most accomplished beer with strong suggestions of banana of clove. This is a beer for the adventerous!

Our next visit was to Norway to sample a Nøgne Ø Porter. I'd got a good feeling about this brewery as they were on my radar so I didn't hesitate at the opportunity to try it. I was very pleased - this is a brewery to keep a look out for and definitely worth paying the extra money. The porter reminded me of the De Molen dark beers sampled a month or so ago, with a gorgeous fruit and hop flavour and a long, bitter hop finish with an excellent balance of sweetness and sharpness. The 7% made it one to ponder over but extended time with this beer is no bad thing.

Finally, it would be remiss of me to attend a beer festival in London and not drink any English beer! East London Brewing had a special festival brew, a mix between their pale ale and an 'unnamed dark ale'. It was great.

It impressed me on two fronts. Firstly, it was following some really potent brews (as you can see) with big, big flavours. How would a 4.3% pale ale follow these beers? Had I done it in the wrong order!? Well no, because it happily stood up to them all. It had a very modern hop presence, reminiscent of the American pioneers of the modern craft beer movement: very upfront and aromatic, like a Cascade or Centennial (though not sure what exactly). Excellently clear, too and crisply finishing. I'd be keen to try the two beers it was made from but to be honest it worked as a blend! Secondly, for a brewery that's been open for just 3 months they have a lot to be proud of. The finish had lengthy bitterness, perhaps a tad too much for my taste, but overall it's a really nice brew and very accomplished; one for the hop lovers, without being too crazy.

I had a top time at the Pig's Ear and will definitely go back next year. The balance of choice was just right. I hope they'll continue the international presence next year but I guess it depends on how much was drunk!

Go and support your local festival!!

White Dog Darker Shade of Pale - 7 (only for murky beer lovers!)

www.whitedogbeer.com

ELAV Grunge IPA - 8.5

(can't find ELAV, sorry - let me know if you do!)

Schlenkerla Urbock - 8.5

www.schlenkerla.de

Nøgne Ø Porter - 9

www.nogne-o.com

East London Brewing Pig's Ear Special Blend - 8

www.eastlondonbrewing.com

Thursday 8 December 2011

The Holy Grail?

Sat conspicuously on my table was the only gift set the reclusive Westvleteren brewery have ever made. Six bottles of Westvleteren XII and two glasses. Anticipation was high, bordering on nervous. What if they were rubbish? How does beer live up to this expectation?

I should perhaps give some background information. Ironically, the first time I ever heard about these beers was in The Beer Book, by Tim Hampson: the entry was precluded 'does this brewery need any introduction?'. 'Yes!', I shouted at the book. I'd never heard of it because, well, you can't buy the beer anywhere other than the abbey and they don't advertise anywhere. They thrive on their reputation (which is huge) but to be honest it seems as though they're perfectly happy brewing on a small scale. They simply brew to live... and pray.

A beer that's so hard to get hold of demands such huge expectation that surely it's impossible to live up to. That's compounded by the fact that I've only got 6 bottles (to share, too!) and when it's gone it's gone, until I make a trip myself to Belgium. However, I was determined to treat it normally and drink it when I feel like it (not sure I'll be saying that when there's one bottle left!). So much so that on my walk home, when I found some Jelly Tots in my pocket, I scoffed them down. What better way to prepare my palate?... Idiot. Fortunately there was some cheese in the fridge to counterbalance the jelly sweets.

On the subject of the fridge; this is not the place to keep Westvleteren XII! Serve at 12-15 degrees, they say. I diligently obliged. I opened with the utmost care and poured delicately; this was not to be spilled.

It looked slightly lighter than I expected. In my head the only Trappist brewery to compare with is Rochefort - no real reason, it's just because I think they're the best readily available - and it was much more like the number 6 (Rochefort's entry level) than the 12 in appearance. It was enticingly murky; all the fantastic yeast was going in too! Imagine a best bitter but with all the extra flotsam and jetsam you'd expect from a trappist monastery. The head was strong, fading from 2cm to a thin-ish sheet after about 5 minutes. I was now ready to get involved!

If this beer has one thing over its comtemporaries then it's the most complex aroma going. The malt doesn't come through that strongly; it's dominated by vinous alcohol and yeast. The overriding flavour is a festive plum scent, followed by (and in no particular order) chocolate cake, musty wood and bready aromas. Bread is something you'd expect in a champagne so I'd be curious to know whether they include a bit of champagne yeast. It excels in giving you warm and comforting smells with something slightly edgy and alive, just in case you forgot what you were drinking.

In the mouth it's as light as a feather and kindly places a cinnamon stick in your cheek, or so it would lead you to believe. It's moussy as the classiest Belgians are and goes down a breeze - at a gentle pace of course. There's bitterness there too, inevitably: there's an immediate sour bitterness after swallowing before giving way to a spicy sweetness which once again is wrestled back by the bitter.

It's a Christmas pudding of a drink with body, spice, bitterness and booze. It's one to keep for a moment when you need a treat and a reminder at what amazing things men (albeit very pious men) can do with malt, water, hops, sugar and yeast. But does it live up to the expectation? Is it the best beer in the world, as some say?

Well, it's certainly one of the best I've tried! It's impossible to give a definitive 'best ever' and as much as people like to give detailed scores, it's wholly subjective. Its reputation creates a fabled air around it but it's not without base. The aroma is probably the best I can think of, with many facets and delightful contrasts and complexity. Its body continues this fine form, the bubbles positively dancing in your mouth. The only area I found it wanting was in the aftertaste, but it's purely a personal thing. I'd prefer a sweeter taste from a beer of this type.

If this beer was available for export and you could buy it from speciality outlets it would still have a sky-high reputation (and demand) because it is a sublime and slightly unique example of a trappist beer. Whether you can get your hands on a glass depends on you getting in your car and driving to meet the monks!

Westvleteren XII - 10

www.sintsixtus.be

Tuesday 6 December 2011

A Dark Brute

Malheur Dark Brut is taking beer-ponce levels to new highs. Everything about it is beer undercover... as champagne!! Besides the svelte bottle, there's gold trimming around the cork and controversial green glass. Some brewers will argue that this leaves it open to light contamination (heaven forfend!). Apparently, UV light can penetrate glass and gives an eggy aroma, but brown glass can prevent this. I've never experienced it myself, being one to buy most beer in brown bottles and not leave them on the windowsill, but experts is experts! Finally, and most obviously, the name 'Brut' is a clear indication that they're placing themselves in the higher echelons of the drinkosphere (I just made that word up).

Having such pretensions and one could say delusions of grandeur (not to mention £15 a bottle) could lead to overblown expectations and eventually disappointment.  Conversely, if this beer really is the mutt's nuts, why should it not assume the identity of something on a higher plane?

How does this prestigous beer fare after all its self-supposed fanfare?

It pours with a suitably champagnesque head; fast to rise and gentle to fall. Its body, of course, could be no further different to champagne but its dark brown has wonderful clarity and spark. We drank in champagne glasses to rise to occasion and it worked fairly well. The only thing I missed was a larger top to plunge my nose into to get a good whiff (I'm in the habit of getting foam on my nose these days...) but I got a good idea nonetheless.

It did go further than your standard dubbel with a really sumptious aroma; hot chocolate was the first pleasant surprise, along with strong caramel and vinous alcohol. The treats continued into the mouth, with burnt butter, a gentle yeasty sweetness and a perfect hop bitterness in the aftertaste (try that one, champers!). There's no fruity element but there's enough going on, really.

It totally belies its strength, aside from a cheeky little zing in the nose after swallowing. The real trick it pulls is its fluffy lightness; this is where it really earns its 'brut' stripes. It floats in your mouth, bubbling away marvellously and doesn't leave too much behind (although enough for a 'chewer' like me). The sweetness left behing is the final treat.

Impressed? You bet. My only qualm is that, whilst it is much better than your average bruin/dubbel, it's not that much better than the best; perhaps not to justify the price. Don't get me wrong though, this is seriously good.

Malheur Dark Brut - 9.5

http://www.malheur.be/bieren.php?l=nederlands (Dutch/French only)

Friday 2 December 2011

All scent, no body.

What's day without night; pie without mash; Bert without Ernie? Somethings don't cut the mustard on their own. In this case: scent without taste.

Bizarrely it's been the case of the last two beers I've drunk, both Moinette Biologique, an organic offering from big boys Dupont and Ramée Amber, a beer from a much smaller, less-well-known brewery - certainly by me at least!

I haven't tried the standard Moinette that Dupont makes, presumably it's pretty similar, but the Biologique version presents itself in a dinky 250ml bottle. I didn't know that pesticides added an extra 80ml to my beer, so perhaps I'll think again with non-organic beer! I had to make sure I was concentrating so it wasn't all drunk before I'd made my notes.

There's wheatsyrup in this beer so it gives a distinctly cloudy appearance, less like a traditional Belgian Witbier and more like a German HefeWeiss (think Erdinger or Kupper's Kölsch) with deep yellows and a fizzy head settling to a nice creamy layer.

It smells delicious with a kind of candy floss aroma, or frying butter. It's a smell which I've not really come across in beer so a nice surprise. Unfortunately it doesn't really translate to a delicious flavour, rather just a bit of an odd one.

To make matters worse, it's pretty much the only flavour on offer. The beer doesn't really offer much in terms of sweetness and only the mildest bitterness. The body is very thin too, which may please some, but I'm a fan of meaty numbers with something to chew on, post gulp. For its 7.5% it comes across a bit watery which is possibly an achievement in itself, albeit not a great one.


Ramée came out looking like my sort of beer. The bottle (with 80ml added pesticides) is smartly presented, though not overwhelming. The cloudy ruby appearance is nice, giving the suggestion that it's got good body. It also involves a little wheat. The head is a fast-fading affair which is a little disappointing but there are more important things in life. Like aroma.

This beer smells as much like strawberries as Fruli (well, nearly). It was such a distinct presence that I had to check the label to see if it did contain strawberries or not. It didn't. So, all the more impressive perhaps. So how did this beer build on it's enticing aroma?

Well, as you might have guessed from my introduction, it didn't really. Apart from a gentle strawberry flavour in the beer, which was more than agreeable, there was once again very little going on. Thankfully it was saved by a hearty meal. Once I had some tasty food the lack of flavour became less of an issue and it became a refreshing palate washer.

Neither of these beers are dreadful (although Moinette does taste a little weird). I wonder if both of these beers suffer because of the wheat content? Wheat isn't exactly known for its pungent flavours or aromas and I can only assume that it supresses the malt flavours.

I think these two are slightly let down by the fact that they aren't really presented as wheat beers. I approached them both as Belgian abbey-style beers and neither had the body or aftertaste to match; something you'd expect from the 7.5% strength they both have. Ramée particularly so as it labels itself as a Tripel. I can't fault either of them on their aromas though and they have to be commended on this, but unfortunately it's not quite enough to make them good beers.

Moinette Biologique - 6
Ramée Amber - 6.5

http://www.brasserie-dupont.com/dupont/Default.aspx?Page=moinettebio

http://www.ramee.be/EN/Products.aspx